Garac: evo preprost recept, zate in vse ostale.
1. Ce hoces slikati "literaturo", to pocni v dobro osvetljenem prostoru (ni pa treba direkt pod lucjo).
2. Vzames fotoaparat in zacnes zumirati (do max. konca opticnega zooma, odvisno od modela).
3. Dvignes aparat znatno nad publikacijo (tudi vec kot 1m, ce ti prej ne uspe).
4. Slikas - pri tem lahko preveris rezultat slikanja z in brez bliskavice.
5. Ponavljas vajo, dokler ti ne uspe.
Ce se ti roke prevec tresejo, pac najdes nacin, da se umiris.
In forum bo imel veliko vec lepih slik. =) Jupiiii.
dvorjan, itak, da je problem svetloba, sploh pri nas v polarnem krogu :)
hvala za nasvet, ampak moti me tudi, da ima ta tamali jebeni ni*on en kup nastavitev in potem še v nekaterih dela fleš, v drugih ne, potem ti fleš upali in vidiš, kaj se zgodi, presvetli določen del...
Povej še na kateri nastavitvi naj bo?
Pa daj ga ali na M (manual) ali pa A (aperture priority), sicer pa se da povsod, razen na avtomatiki, rocno izklopiti bliskavico ... Malo se poigraj, bos videl da ni noben bav-bav.
V anglescini, sicer napisano predvsem za slikanje premikajocih se zadev (ker takrat mi ljubitelji fotografije naredimo najvec "zmazkov"):
Program (P). This is the camera's basic exposure solution. It's a pretty straightforward tradeoff between aperture and shutter speed, as shown in the manual. In sports photography, I often use this mode for crowd shots in bright light. I'm usually shooting wide angle, and this mode will give me both a reasonably high shutter speed and small aperture – enough to stop movement in the crowd and give a fairly broad depth of field.
Shutter Priority (S). This is a setting where you control the shutter speed, and the camera adjusts the aperture automatically to achieve proper exposure. I will often use this mode when using telephoto lenses in a stage or auditorium setting, where lighting may not be great and I want the greatest possible depth of field. I set a shutter speed that is fast enough to prevent blur (using the old reciprocal of the focal length rule of thumb, and proper handling technique) – for example, I'll set a value of "200″ (1/200 shutter speed) for the 80-200/f2.8 AF-S.
Aperture Priority (A). This is probably the mode I used most often until the new D-SLR came along and I switched to manual exposure mode. For sports, setting the lowest f-number (widest aperture) guarantees you the fastest possible shutter speed for freezing the action, as well as shallow depth of field to blur distracting backgrounds. Often times, I will stop down one below the widest aperture (say, f4 when using an f2.8 lens) as many lenses are not particularly sharp wide open. For non-sports shooting, controlling the aperture is primarily for controlling depth of field, allowing me to choose a narrow range of focus when I want to isolate a subject. Conversely, setting a large f-number (narrow aperture) maximizes my depth of field.
Manual (M). This used to be strictly the domain of control freaks, and was seldom a mode I ever used until the advent of Nikon's ISO Auto Sensitivity Control. Turn off ISO Auto Sensitivity Control if you want absolute manual control, otherwise you can choose exactly the shutter speed/aperture combination you want, and let the camera adjust the ISO automatically to match.
Oziroma, tole se malo bolj natancno pise:
M = Fully Manual Mode
In this mode, the settings of the camera are fully manual (shutter speeds, aperture, ISO, etc). Most suitable for indoor studio photography, this setting can also be used outdoors. However, due to frequently changing lighting conditions, this mode may cause missed exposures if not properly used.
A = Aperture Priority
In this mode, aperture can be set accordingly and the shutter speed will automatically sync for the proper exposure. This mode is most suitable for photographing with narrow DOF (Depth of Field), where the lens is set at its widest aperture.
S = Shutter Priority
In this mode, the shutter speed can be adjusted according, and in turn the aperture will sync for the proper exposure. This mode is most suitable for photography methods such as panning.
miran, ni problem tavelik aparat, ampak tamali, ki nima teh oznak, ampak miljon enih ikonc, od živalic, do mulcev, pa nočno, pa hrana, pa...
A ikonce z revijo pa nima? :-)
No, dobro, tudi tamali fotoaparati znajo to.
Mogoce bi poskusil z naslednjimi ikonami:
muzej, pribor, roze ... nekateri novejsi pa mislim da ze imajo ikono podobno dokumentom =)
Citat od: garac;147789miran, ni problem tavelik aparat, ampak tamali, ki nima teh oznak, ampak miljon enih ikonc, od živalic, do mulcev, pa nočno, pa hrana, pa...
Žvali so lahko tud majhne in bi znalo bit to macro način
Mulci majo mevle v riti torej je ta ikona za "šprtne posnetke"...
Nočno slikanje vemo kako je - tema.com
Hrana je ponavadi na mizi in v to kategorijo bi probu stlačit slikanje dokumenta
Nisem strokovnjak za fotke.